I've spent more hours than I'd like to admit hunting for the ideal wool for quilting applique, and honestly, it's turn into a little bit of an obsession. There is just something about the particular texture as well as the weight of wool that will adds a level of "cozy" a person can't quite obtain with standard natural cotton. If you've actually run your fingertips over a finished wool piece, you know exactly what I'm referring to. It's heavy, it's forgiving, and it hides a multitude of stitching sins, which is probably why We love it a lot.
When you're first starting out there, it could be a small confusing to determine what you actually require to purchase. You'll see different terms thrown around, and when you pick the wrong thing, your task might not turn out how you imagined. Let's break down what actually functions best and the way to manage it which means you don't end up disappointed.
Why wool makes such a big difference
Cotton applique is beautiful, don't get me incorrect, but it can be a little fussy. You possess to turn these edges under, be concerned about fraying, and obtain your curves ideal. With wool for quilting applique, you can skip the toughest part. Since felted wool doesn't arena, you can simply cut your shapes and stitch them all the way down. It's incredibly satisfying to see a project come together so quickly.
Beyond the convenience of use, wool adds a three-dimensional look to your quilts. Because the fabric has its own loft area, the pieces put off the background. Whether you're making a primitive folk-art wall structure hanging or including a few flower details to the bed quilt, the wool makes a smooth, tactile finish that's just begging to be touched.
Felted wool vs. wool felt: What's the deal?
This is how most people get tripped up. They sound the particular same, but they will are not the same. If you visit a big-box art store and purchase those stiff, 25-cent squares of "felt, " you're likely buying an artificial blend (usually fat or polyester). That stuff is good for kids' designs, but it's not what you want for a high-quality quilt. It's scratchy, it pillages easily, and it feels thin.
What you're actually looking for is usually felted wool . This particular is 100% wool fabric that offers been woven plus then put through a "felting" process—basically washed in sizzling water and dried on high temperature. This shrinks the fibres and tightens the weave, developing a dense, soft fabric that won't unravel when you cut it.
There's also wool felt , which is a blend of wool and rayon (usually 20% to 35% wool). It's one step up from the cheap acrylic things and is much easier on the wallet than 100% felted wool. It's a great middle-ground option if you're working upon an enormous project plus need to keep costs down, though this doesn't have quite the same "soul" since the pure stuff.
Getting your wool ready for the needle
If you're purchasing wool that hasn't been "pre-felted" (maybe you found the great wool skirt at a thrift shop or bought some yardage), you've got to do the particular work yourself. Throw it in the cleaning machine on the hot cycle along with a little little bit of soap. Then, toss it in the particular dryer. You would like those fibers in order to get nice plus cozy with each other.
One thing I've learned the difficult way: check for colour bleeding. Red wool is usually notorious for this particular. I usually bathe my wool inside a bowl of sizzling water having a "color catcher" sheet simply to see what goes on. The last point you want is really a beautiful red coronary heart bleeding all more than your cream-colored background the 1st time your duvet gets a little damp.
If you're buying hand-dyed wool from a specialty shop, it's generally already been via this process, therefore you can frequently jump straight straight into the fun part—cutting and stitching.
The tools you actually need (and the particular ones you don't)
You don't need a specialized toolbox for wool applique, but the few specific issues will make your daily life a whole great deal easier.
First off, scissors . You want the pair that is razor-sharp all the way to the very tip. Since wool is thicker than cotton, dull scissors may just chew via it and provide you jagged edges. I prefer a little pair of micro-serrated scissors because they will "grip" the wool as you reduce, preventing it through sliding around.
When it comes to needles, you'll want something having a larger eye. I usually reach for a Chenille needle (size 22 or 24). It has the sharp point out get through the dense wool but a large enough eye that will I'm not squinting and swearing while trying to line it.
Since for pinning your pieces down? Don't. Pins often perspective the wool or even create bumps. I'm an enormous fan of utilizing a tiny pat of fabric glue or perhaps a bit of fusible web (like Steam-A-Seam) to hold the shapes in place whilst I stitch. This keeps everything exactly where it needs to be without any kind of stabbing involved.
Thread choices for that perfect finish off
The twine you choose can completely change the look of the wool for quilting applique. You have the few main choices depending on how very much you want the particular stitching to display:
- Perle Cotton (Size 7 or 12): This will be the gold regular for that "primitive" or hand-crafted look. It's a turned thread that rests on top associated with the wool and adds even more consistency. Size 12 will be a bit slimmer and more subtle, whilst Size 8 is chunky and bold.
- Wool Thread: Using wool line on wool applique is a match produced in heaven. It blends in wonderfully, making the stitching appear to be they're part of the fabric itself. It's extremely soft and gives a really high-end finish.
- Stranded Embroidery Floss: You probably already have a lot of this in a drawer somewhere. This works great! I actually usually use two strands for a look that's similar in order to a size twelve Perle cotton.
Tips for the smooth stitching experience
Many people use a blanket stitch when functioning with wool. This creates a wonderful frame around your shape and secures the edges flawlessly. However, don't experience like you're locked into that. An easy whip stitch (where you simply look at the edge) is excellent for a more rustic, "pioneer" vibe.
One particular little trick I've picked up would be to keep my stitching slightly further aside than I might with cotton. Since wool is big, if you put your stitches too close up together, it may begin to look staged. Let the wool breathe!
Furthermore, try not to pull your own thread too restricted. In case you yank upon it, the wool will pucker and lose that level, beautiful look. You want the thread to sit comfortably on the surface, almost like it's just resting there.
Storing your own stash so this stays beautiful
Once you start gathering wool, you'll realize it takes up more space than natural cotton. It's bulky! We like to maintain mine in apparent plastic bins so I can see most the colors at once. It's the good idea to keep several planks blocks or lavender sachets in there. Moths love wool just as much as we do, and there's nothing more heartbreaking than pulling out a lovely part of hand-dyed wool only to find a pit in the middle of it.
When you have smaller leftovers, don't throw them away! Even the tiny one-inch circle of wool can be the center of a bloom or perhaps a little berry on the vine. We keep a "scrap jar" on the sewing table specifically for those small components of wool for quilting applique that will are too quite to toss.
Working with wool is honestly one of the most relaxing forms associated with quilting I've discovered. There's no machine noise, no difficult math, and a person can do it while sitting on the couch watching a movie. When you get the hang of picking the particular right materials, you'll probably find yourself wanting to "wool-ify" each project you start. It's just that good.